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Kibble

Backed by Dr. Susan Recker, Dr. Jeannette Bimonte & 1 others...

INTRODUCTION

Kibble is still one of the most well-known and utilized feeding modalities for dogs, but it has started to fall under scrutiny in recent years. Although there are downsides to kibble, it’s also one of the most cost-effective ways to feed a pet. It’s important to note that there is no shortage of pets waiting for a home in shelters and rescues. Kibble makes pet ownership more accessible and as the common saying goes, “the best dog is a fed dog.” 


Many kibble bags often feature fresh filets of meats, brightly colored fruits and vegetables, and picturesque grain fields painting a picture of whole food based nutrition. Unfortunately, this is rarely the state of ingredients used in these diets. It’s important to not choose dog food solely based on the ingredient list, as pet food companies can heavily manipulate their ingredient lists and use it as a marketing tactic.


GLOSSARY

What to know about kibble.


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CHOOSING A BRAND

In order to create a product that can sit on a shelf for a year or remain open in your pantry, many ingredients are already highly processed before even making it to the kibble plant. Once these ingredients reach the kibble plant, they will go through another high-heat process to extrude the diet into the convenient dry food. The heat processes these ingredients go through denature the natural nutritional value of food and require premixes, synthetic vitamin and mineral blends, to reestablish nutrient levels.

Applying heat to fats renders the products making them inflammatory in nature, which can be especially limiting when trying to combat inflammatory conditions in your dog. Despite many brands advertising the use of omega-3 oils or fish in their recipes, the high heats damage the anti-inflammatory components. When fats are exposed to air they oxidize and go rancid. When looking for a brand to feed your dog, prioritize those with less-rendered ingredients and avoid foods that contain things such as meat meal and large amounts of legumes.


Why it matters: 

Among some of the most common ingredients used in kibble diets are meat meals. Often referred to as “mystery” meat, meat meals are a dried, highly rendered meat product that can most easily be described as resembling a protein powder. When pet food companies don't identify the specific type of meat, it could come from any species, making the sourcing and quality questionable. These companies might use a combination of different proteins or rotate through different proteins based on market availability. This becomes particularly problematic if your dog develops a food allergy (which are typically protein-based) because it will be impossible to know which species they've been exposed to.


What you can do

  • Look for specific protein sources like chicken meal, beef meal, or salmon meal rather than generic "meat meal"
  • At minimum, avoid any foods containing the vague term "meat meal"
  • Consider avoiding meals in general due to their processing methods
  • If your dog ever develops food sensitivities, having clear protein sources in their diet history will be crucial for identifying the problem

Why it matters: 

BHA is a synthetic antioxidant added to dog foods and treats to keep them fresh longer, and it's typically found in cheaper, lower-quality products. Research has raised concerns about several negative effects, including potential carcinogenicity, toxic effects on DNA, and endocrine and thyroid disruption. Paradoxically, while it's meant to act as an antioxidant, its metabolism can actually increase production of reactive oxygen species, which means it may promote oxidative damage rather than prevent it. Oxidative stress is strongly linked to cell damage, inflammation, and cancer. The research on BHA shows mixed results—some studies suggest negative effects while others show protective effects—making it somewhat controversial. However, what's particularly concerning is that we don't have long-term safety studies on feeding BHA every day, every meal, for years on end, which is the reality for many dogs fed the same food throughout their lives. Even though it's included in small amounts, the cumulative effect of thousands of meals containing BHA over a lifetime is unknown.


What you can do

  • Check ingredient lists and avoid foods containing BHA
  • Look for safer preservation alternatives like vitamin C, vitamin E, or rosemary extract
  • Remember that antioxidants are essential in kibble and supplements like fish oil to prevent rancid fats (which can speed up aging and contribute to cancer), but BHA isn't the only option

Why it matters: 

When legumes like peas, chickpeas, and lentils make up a large portion of the ingredient list, issues can arise. Research suggests that foods containing large amounts of legumes may impact the bioavailability of certain nutrients important for heart health. These diets can also contain cardiotoxic compounds like cyanide that can directly damage heart muscle. While more research is needed, the potential heart health risks aren't worth taking. Additionally, while legumes do provide protein, they're not as bioavailable as animal proteins—meaning animal proteins are more easily digested and absorbed compared to plant proteins. Pet food companies often use "ingredient splitting" to make legumes appear lower on the ingredient list by dividing them into components (like peas, pea protein, and pea starch). 


What you can do

  • Check ingredient lists for multiple types of legumes or split legume ingredients (peas, pea protein, pea starch)
  • Avoid diets where legumes make up a large portion of the ingredient list
  • Don't assume meat is the primary ingredient just because it's listed first. Instead, look for ingredient splitting tactics
  • Choose foods with animal-based proteins as the primary protein source and only small amounts of legumes
  • Remember that just because meat is listed first doesn't mean it makes up the majority of the diet

Why it matters: 

Ingredient splitting is when a pet food company takes one ingredient (like peas) and divides it into different components (peas, pea protein, pea starch, pea fiber). Since ingredient lists must be ordered from heaviest to lightest, splitting one ingredient into multiple components makes each individual component weigh less and appear further down the list. Even if you see meat as the first few ingredients and think the food is healthy, reading further down might reveal multiple split ingredients that, if kept together, would rank much higher on the list. Some companies take this even further by using different types of similar ingredients—like five different carbohydrates or five different legumes. Even though these fall lower on the list individually, they actually make up a large portion of the food.


What you can do:

  • Don't choose pet food just because it has meat as the first ingredient
  • Learn to read the ingredient list as a whole and identify ingredient splitting
  • Look for multiple versions of the same ingredient (peas, pea protein, pea starch) or multiple similar ingredients (various legumes or carbohydrates)
  • Don't completely ignore the ingredient list—understand how to interpret it correctly

Why it matters: 

Mycotoxins are naturally occurring toxins produced by certain types of molds, especially in grains like wheat, corn, rice, oats, and barley. All common ingredients in many commercial pet foods. The concerning part is that mycotoxins are invisible and odorless, so you can't detect them, but they can severely impact your dog’s health. At high levels, they can cause acute poisoning with symptoms like vomiting, tremors, and liver damage. While acute poisoning isn't common with commercial pet foods, the real concern is chronic low-grade exposure. Ingesting small amounts of mycotoxins won't produce immediate symptoms, but over time it can weaken the immune system, increase inflammation, and even increase the risk of certain cancers. The problem is that many pet food companies don't regularly test for mycotoxins. 


What you can do:

  • Reach out directly to your pet food company and ask if they test for mycotoxins
  • Request a certificate of analysis or proof showing whether mycotoxins are present and at what levels
  • If the company can't give you a straightforward, transparent answer, consider switching to a different brand
  • Don't assume price or marketing claims mean a food is mycotoxin-free

Why it matters: 

Seed oils provide high amounts of omega-6s, which when consumed in excess can cause increased inflammation. However, if balanced with the right amount of omega-3s, the ratio becomes more anti-inflammatory. The problem is that most commercial pet foods often have very high levels of omega-6s and insufficient omega-3s. Feeding a diet like this long-term can drive chronic inflammation and potentially increase your pet's risk of developing chronic disease. However, omega-3 supplementation isn't something to do casually. There is a safe upper limit for dosing, and excessive amounts can have negative health consequences like reduced wound healing and delayed blood clotting.


What you can do:

  • Ask your veterinarian about starting your pet on a high-quality fish oil supplement
  • Work with your vet to determine proper dosing—don't randomly pick a product and start adding it
  • Opt for products made from shorter-lived fish like anchovies and sardines, which tend to be lower in toxins and higher in beneficial omega-3s (EPA and DHA)



RECIPES

Consider adding whole-food based meal toppers for your dog, such as meats, organs, veggies, and fruits to provide antioxidants and help maintain a healthy microbiome. For transitioning your pets diet the two most notable options are the gradual transition where you slowly introduce the new diet to your pets previous diet by gradually increasing the amount of the new diet and decreasing the amount of the old diet over a period of days. The second method is the Cold Turkey method, this method employs a 24 hour fast, followed by the total introduction of the new diet as the first post fast meal. Your pet may experience some symptoms of diet transition on either method but some scenarios can make one method better than the other.




SAFETY PRACTICES

It is important to wash your hands thoroughly after handling kibble, although cooked kibble is among one of the higher percentages of foods recalled for pathogenic bacteria. Clean bowls and utensils that store these foods regularly. It is recommended to store your kibble in the bag it was purchased in, inside of an air-tight storage container away from direct sunlight and high temperatures. Kibble is prone to mites and other insects, so check your bags carefully after purchase and before feeding, remember to check it regularly if you buy in bulk. If at all possible, buy smaller bags to avoid feeding rancid food.


Why it matters: 

While buying larger bags may seem more economical, the longer food stays open, the more it's exposed to air, light, and potentially heat (depending on storage location). This increases the amount of oxidized fats your pet ingests. Oxidized fats are essentially rancid fats that increase oxidative damage in your pet's body, which is linked to chronic disease and cancer. Fresh kibble matters for your pet's long-term health.


What you can do:

  • Throw out any kibble that's been open longer than 4-6 weeks
  • Buy smaller bags if you have a smaller dog
  • Store kibble in its original bag, sealed and rolled tight with all air removed
  • Place the sealed original bag inside an airtight food storage container
  • Keep kibble as fresh as possible to minimize oxidized fat exposure

Why it matters: 

When you dump kibble directly into a plastic container, you're exposing it to air and light, which oxidizes fats more quickly. You're also allowing the food to contact plastics, which aren't totally inert—they contain chemicals and microplastics that leach into the food. Your pet then ingests these chronically if you're doing this every day for years. 


What you can do:

  • Keep kibble in its original bag, rolled tight to remove air, and use a chip clip to keep it closed
  • Place the sealed original bag inside an airtight container (plastic is fine as long as it's not contacting the food)